The theme of a L'Wren Scott show invariably sounds like an old, half-remembered film. This one was called Serengeti Sunrise and was inspired by a safari taken last October. "It's all about the sunsets and colors of the big, open skies," she said. "I wanted looseness and fluidity, and layers of transparency."

The first look out—a languid white sheer jacket and wide trousers—seemed almost like loungewear, which was definitely a stretch for the Rani of Restriction. In fact, many of the looser pieces shared boudoir origins, including a decadent gold and black lace kimono jacket and a simple blush-hued dancer's dress with a slanting, scalloped hem. Even Scott's archetypal body-skimming sheaths, which arrived in colors that you'd see streaked across an East African sky, seemed to have a little flutter and movement on a hem or a soft belled sleeve. This designer generally seems immune to trends, but she hit a few here, namely in the sheer factor and the nude-blush-ivory axis.

Thankfully, though, she didn't go minimal. No woman who embroiders velvet waistcoats so intricately—cue the trio of beauties in today's lineup—ever could. But this softer vision of Scott's extreme elegance seemed to have subdued the whiff of danger and rock 'n' roll that is a vital part of her attraction.