September 11, 2010 New York
The focus here was on a dress that hovers just below the knee or farther and channels a dancer's athleticism and grace. The Azrias aimed to hold your interest with the geometry of sliced cutouts, thin crisscrossing straps, and linear piping experiments. The strategy proved successful. Still, the points of departure, like a couple of great slouchy silk crepe suits, were welcome. The twin ghosts of Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein collections past rattled around the edges. That's not a criticism. You could have worse references. It will be interesting to see where this new direction takes the Azrias.