Marchesa
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 15, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
There were times today at Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig's Marchesa presentation when you couldn't breathe. And it had nothing to do with the crush of onlookers, camera crews, celebrity journalists, or the mini-posses of handlers for Jessica Szohr, Kelly Osbourne, and Gabourey Sidibe. Or, quite frankly, even with the baying pack of paparazzi laid in wait for them outside the Chelsea Art Museum.Nope, it was the dresses—literally breathtaking—all exquisitely wrought this season with orientalist-inspired details: heavily bejeweled necklines, hand-painted florals on rolling sculptural drapes, and grand obilike loops that were revealed when a model turned. Amid the gowns were a few harem-panted jumpsuits. Cut in lace and finished with little bolero jackets and jewel-crusted clutches, they didn't exactly read casual.
Chapman and Craig have proved time and again they know how to knock them dead. The assembled crowd could scarcely tear themselves away from the clothes, a rarity at some presentations, and were often at a loss for superlatives. And yet there was also a sense of the expected here, evident in both the familiar drama of the clothes and the format of the presentation. It would be a treat to see Chapman and Craig hit "refresh" next season.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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