MaxMara
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 25, 2010
By Tim Blanks
The word minimal is cropping up more and more this season. For MaxMara, it started with something as lean and precise as the new-wave music with which Frederic Sanchez soundtracked the show, and it extended to a (rather too) coolly analytical parade of familiar body-con styles, with the emphasis on a monochrome palette to elongate the silhouette still further. Stretch shorts and tops all in yellow or orange or violet were immediately followed by palazzo pants in the same colors, which, voluminous though they were, were slashed to reveal the limbs below. A nude suede all-in-one and a white second-skin jumpsuit were the most extreme expressions of the collection's obsession with shape, but the way in which a cable-stitched sweater was yanked close to the body with a skinny orange belt also subtly broadcast that silhouette was everything for Spring.It seemed like an oddly ungenerous stance for a house that is famous for its all-styles-served-here essence. The emphasis on the body meant flesh was bared in a backless apron-front dress or a white sheath that reversed to barely there-ness. The bandeau paired with a khaki pencil skirt compounded the overview. Of course, a show lets a label be a little more absolutist than it is back in the showroom, and MaxMara fans may see clues to that in the nautical stripes and the summery trenchcoats that ran the gamut from white leather to polka dots.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen






















