Moncler Gamme Rouge
will go down as the most wonderfully wacky show of Spring 2011. Creative director Giambattista Valli usually stages an installation; this was performance art, complete with strobe lights, modern dancers in scuba masks, and not only a smoke machine, but also a wind machine and a parachute, too. Adding to the madcap mood were the models' towering turbans and Day-Glo lipstick. As for the clothes themselves? Given that this is Moncler, the outerwear brand, that we're talking about, they were coat-dresses, mostly, and recognizably Valli in their slightly sixties shapes, with cocooning egglike volumes. But that's only part of the story. Not unlike at his signature collection, the designer seemed interested in color-blocking and patchworks. In contrast with his own show, the colors in question were neons and the fabrics multicolor lamés that looked like candy foil wrappers. At least they did under the black light.