Maison Martin Margiela
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 1, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
"Men's wardrobe meets the woman's body," read the program notes at Maison Martin Margiela. So far, so straightforward. Which designer in Paris, including Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga yesterday, hasn't explored the masculine side of womenswear at one time or another? And wasn't it Margiela himself, before he left the premises earlier this decade, who triggered the front row's abiding interest in a strong-shouldered jacket?The show's first look was simple enough at first glance: a crisp blue men's shirt with extra fabric on either side of the sleeves ironed flat. But then, as the model inched her way past, the shirt's radically squared-off back came into view, producing a sort of sandwich-board effect. Margiela fans have embraced more peculiar ideas before, and it's entirely possible that there are still some out there who could get into the idea of a well-cut gray wool jacket with the same stiff arms and planar back, along with pants whose hems seemed glued to the heels of scooped-out platform pumps.
Unfortunately, it quickly became clear that this was the show's one big idea, and we mean it when we say big. Toward the end, the entire front of a beaded dress was stretched over a rectangular piece of plastic extending from the model's shoulders to the floor, while the back of the gown was stretched across her form. Really, really? The model before last might've had it toughest, though, her arms trapped at her sides between two wrinkled layers of what could have been patent leather. It looked like she'd been vacuum-packed into a Hefty garbage bag.
The Maison design team set the bar high last season with an outing loaded with want-able clothes. This collection fell flat.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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