Maurizio Pecoraro said his Spring collection was influenced by Yves Saint Laurent and the recent exhibition of his work in Paris. That puts him squarely in the middle of things this season, which is a good, and not-so-good, place to be. The bad news first: Pecoraro is going up against bigger, better-funded brands, and it's difficult to compete with their access to quality fabrics and the craftsmanship of their ateliers. His suede fringe will have a hard time living up to Frida Giannini's at Gucci, and his crochets and gem-studded macramés tended to look more crafty than couture. The collection would've benefited from a lighter hand with the extras, not just when it came to the straw hats, neck corsages, hobo bags, and flower-strewn sandals, but also in terms of the layering, which sometimes added bulk and weighed down the silhouettes.

On the plus side: Like Saint Laurent, Pecoraro can cut a mean pair of pants. We've seen plenty of high-waisted, flaring trousers this season, but few have managed to look quite so flattering on the derriere as his in white linen. He also took cues from the master on the casting front. It's almost unbelievable that fashion is still trying to figure out that lesson from YSL four decades later. Kudos to Pecoraro for the most diverse group of models this week.