Maurizio Pecoraro
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 23, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Maurizio Pecoraro said his Spring collection was influenced by Yves Saint Laurent and the recent exhibition of his work in Paris. That puts him squarely in the middle of things this season, which is a good, and not-so-good, place to be. The bad news first: Pecoraro is going up against bigger, better-funded brands, and it's difficult to compete with their access to quality fabrics and the craftsmanship of their ateliers. His suede fringe will have a hard time living up to Frida Giannini's at Gucci, and his crochets and gem-studded macramés tended to look more crafty than couture. The collection would've benefited from a lighter hand with the extras, not just when it came to the straw hats, neck corsages, hobo bags, and flower-strewn sandals, but also in terms of the layering, which sometimes added bulk and weighed down the silhouettes.On the plus side: Like Saint Laurent, Pecoraro can cut a mean pair of pants. We've seen plenty of high-waisted, flaring trousers this season, but few have managed to look quite so flattering on the derriere as his in white linen. He also took cues from the master on the casting front. It's almost unbelievable that fashion is still trying to figure out that lesson from YSL four decades later. Kudos to Pecoraro for the most diverse group of models this week.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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