Michael van der Ham
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 19, 2010
By Tim Blanks
There were those in Michael van der Ham's audience today who found themselves responding to his clothes the way they might to a Rei Kawakubo show: first bemused, then fascinated, finally mesmerized. Van der Ham's collages of cloth were initially wayward enough to feel like the sartorial self-expression of a split personality. The arms told the story. One might be covered by a full sleeve of velvet dévoré; the other would be bared under an off-the-shoulder blouse. There'd be a drapey classical effect on one side, and fitted crushed velvet on the other. Or a sleeve to the elbow versus a little cap sleeve of sequins. And in between, it was all-bets-off, with clashes of pattern, texture, and technique that looked like a consummate statement on randomness in fashion. But with van der Ham as the guide, a road map through the chaos emerged.The overarching theme was the work of the legendary Hollywood costumer Adrian. With his last collection, van der Ham was all about decades, attaching something from the fifties to something from the seventies, for example. This time around, his focus on one individual didn't seem to temper his profligate creativity, but it coincided with a heightened sophistication. The designer was working with his own prints for the first time, and perhaps that honed the internal logic.
There is something of a postmodern conceit in what van der Ham is doing. He's making fashion about fashion, in the same way a brilliant new artist like Marlo Pascual is making art about art. But in both cases, the peculiar beauty of the result speaks for itself.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
