Nicolas Andreas Taralis
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 28, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
With its optimistic colors and bright prints, Spring 2011 might end up being a very alienating season to fashion's goth wing, for whom black is practically a religion. That's where Nicolas Andreas Taralis could come in. Back on the runway for the second time running after a three-year absence, the designer paid current trends little heed. "I like dark things," he said, explaining that he was thinking about tribes—Old European and Far Eastern ones, as well as international youth cultures. With their leather mesh tanks, hole-y denim, distressed suiting, and chemically treated camouflage pieces, all perched on substantial wedge-heel boots, the models looked like the definition of urban warriors. In fact, the show's opening mini was inspired by the traditional Greek military skirt, its 400 pleats evoking each year of Turkish occupation, but whipped up in frothy silk tulle for some modern romance.Speaking of, Taralis romanced the clothes every which way, washing a leather vest for a wrinkled, this-new-old-thing effect, or soaking narrow, elongated blazers in salt water to create ghostly white stains at the hems. The silhouette was attenuated up top, with jackets subtly cut away in the rear and vests that were nearly backless. The bottom half was slightly fuller, the precision of the designer's tailored blazers giving way to silk drop-crotch pants. Taralis may be in lone territory so far this season, but he negotiated it well.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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