Nicole Farhi
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 20, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Is it futile to resist the riptide of minimalism currently tugging at designers across the aesthetic spectrum? If you're of the Cavalli or Decarnin school of thought, the answer is no. But if your goal is to make pretty clothes that women want to wear, the best strategy is to swim with this particular ism until it runs its course.That's where Nicole Farhi found herself for Spring. "I don't want to depart from my signature, which is feminine and soft," Farhi said backstage. "But I want to get some novelty with a harder edge; that's the challenge." The designer updated her brand of prettiness with new materials like paper, rubber latex, and a tinsel-like Lurex, which she remixed into streamlined, and often hybridized, silhouettes.
At its strongest, Farhi's collection had a squeaky-clean modern punch. What worked best were a navy nylon trenchcoat with a single flap of royal blue latex, the trio of dresses in Easter-egg colors that twisted their twenties-influenced silhouettes with razor-sharp pleats paneled in nylon, and an airy acid yellow silk dress shaped only by a Perspex halter and belt.
At times, the silvery and shiny elements here seemed to be an old way of envisioning futuristic clothes: 2011 via 1961. And yet there was something modern about the simple sandals crafted from bands of leather (in natural buff tones or primary hues) as well as clear Perspex. They looked like an updated version of something Jane Birkin might have worn, and paired with everything from a paillette-embroidered cocktail frock to a fluid suit, they were perfectly in step for today.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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