No. 21
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 22, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Spring is the second outing for Alessandro Dell'Acqua at his new label, No. 21, and his focus continues to be on sportswear gussied up with lace and other feminine touches. That made for some interesting counterpoints, including a white ribbed sweater dress draped in silk crepe at the back, and a plain white tee paired with a long pencil skirt, its rear seam provocatively split to reveal a swatch of peekaboo lace. The "backstory" was important here: A jacket and skirt were bustled, skirt hems were asymmetrical, and a plain white cardigan worn with a brocade mini was inset with a square swatch of that rich fabric below the shoulder blades.Lingerie was a big part of Dell'Acqua's business before he lost the rights to his own name, and no one's going to stop him from indulging his skill set as his new label. Sometimes, though, the results of his masculine-meets-femme concept felt forced.
The simplest pieces were indisputably the best. Magazine editors started scribbling notes when a simple khaki pantsuit—cropped, slightly A-line jacket; high-waisted, flaring trousers—came down the runway. A "public" pajama suit in a nude silk floral had the same uncomplicated appeal, as did a midnight flower-print coat-dress worn back-to-front. Minimalism, per se, has never been this designer's calling card, but it turns out he's got a knack for it. As he focuses on building the brand internationally, streamlined might be the smart way to go.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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