September 29, 2010 Paris
A savvy plan, to be sure, and one he approached by delving into the house archives—not necessarily the clothes, but rather the history of collaborations with artists. Of the talents in question, Copping explained, Christian Bérard provided the sweet palette; Janine Janet, embellishments like iridescent paillettes and crystals; and Marc Lalique, the lovely watercolor floral prints. And because Robert Ricci was one of his mother Nina's most important collaborators, Copping also had masculine touches among the signature ruffles and lace.
There were some misses, like a shapeless gazar coat drippy with feathers and a zealously frilly pleated top. Ironically, tailored pieces like the sweeping cotton trench that Copping paired with a chiffon dress were among the show's strongest looks. Still, the girly stuff will fit right in this season.