It was starting to look as if somebody had flicked the dimmer switch in these early days of Paris fashion week, but suddenly Peter Copping went and turned on the brights. Nina Ricci's artistic director began experimenting with neons for Resort, but just on accent pieces. Here, vivid colors like acid yellow, shocking pink, cherry, and purple were an integral part of the show's message. "I wanted it to be up and feel good," Copping said.

A savvy plan, to be sure, and one he approached by delving into the house archives—not necessarily the clothes, but rather the history of collaborations with artists. Of the talents in question, Copping explained, Christian Bérard provided the sweet palette; Janine Janet, embellishments like iridescent paillettes and crystals; and Marc Lalique, the lovely watercolor floral prints. And because Robert Ricci was one of his mother Nina's most important collaborators, Copping also had masculine touches among the signature ruffles and lace.

There were some misses, like a shapeless gazar coat drippy with feathers and a zealously frilly pleated top. Ironically, tailored pieces like the sweeping cotton trench that Copping paired with a chiffon dress were among the show's strongest looks. Still, the girly stuff will fit right in this season.