If the first look out at Narciso Rodriguez—a lean, gray sleeveless shift—gave you Kate Moss (in the Johnny Depp days) at Cannes, it wasn't your imagination, but rather the designer's intention. "I was looking at old pictures from the nineties, you know, Carolyn, Kate," said Rodriguez before the show. Carolyn would be Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, whose elegant but shockingly simple wedding dress made Narciso Rodriguez a household name in 1996.

We've been seeing a lot of stripped-down looks this week, but with this quietly beautiful collection, Rodriguez, one of the O.G. nineties minimalists, showed everyone how it's done. "There's so much noise in fashion," he continued. "I wanted something fresh, easy, and pretty." There was plenty of pretty in blush-hued silks cut on the bias, and Rodriguez's version of modern vintage in tea dresses in a fils coupe patterned with abstract leaves and vines inspired by video artist Jennifer Steinkamp.

The counterpoint to that was Rodriguez's excellent tailoring in strong-shouldered suits that any smart woman circa 1997 or 2011 would be thrilled to own. Stark and dark collarless coats were thrown over silk tank dresses, with more shades of Kennedy. There was a beauty to these seemingly simple clothes that needs to be seen up close, like the layering of different fabrics and the designer's sure hand with cutting and bias technique. Like he did over a decade ago, Rodriguez reminded us that minimalism doesn't need to battle the feminine form or preclude a sense of romance. This was a quiet triumph for Rodriguez.