September 17, 2010 London
By that, he means a sleeveless trenchcoat— with nary a buckle or epaulet—cut to the hip in front and long in back, split and curved like insect wings, and paired with tailored dark jeans. Or perhaps an asymmetrical denim sheath dress that's simple but not quite. Yousefzada sharpened his signature knack for giving straightforward-looking clothes a layer of interest and sexual tension by, say, slicing open the back of a shell top, or crafting the silhouette of an elegant dress so it seemed like one panel of it had shifted tectonically and ended up slightly longer than the rest. A more overt expression of the designer's approach was the half-skirt swag of material that he tacked onto the hip. It made for mixed results. What stood out here: the simplest pieces, like a black cotton dress with belled sleeves, a half peplum, and a sliver of inset mesh, or a white dolman-sleeved dress with box pleats that was freshness incarnate. What could have been jettisoned: the neon-ish hues. Yes, a collection this clean and sober needs a pop of something to break it up, but these colors didn't feel like the right answer.