Ohne Titel
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
With each season, the spotlight on Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill grows more intense. A favorite of the arty-fashion set since its inception three years ago, the label's show has achieved distinct can't-miss status—even on a gorgeously sunny Saturday morning. The hothouse glare has seen hothouse growth. Their Fall collection resulted in a 300 percent jump in sales, and this season they're launching a handbag line that's long been in the works. These girls mean business. And that meant that their Spring inspiration of Japanese woodcut artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi—sparked by a Japan Society exhibit earlier this year—was rendered with a very subtle hand.Adams and Gill worked in a tight palette of black, navy, and white. There were flashes of fluorescent on the fiercely cool sandal-boots and the geometric tubular necklaces that were a collaboration with artist Tauba Auerbach. There was a vague Eastern sensibility in the simple silhouette of the belted pants and the egglike kimono curve in cropped jackets and drapey striped knits. But that merged with the punch of graphic sportiness in color-blocking and a sort of race-car sleekness. Much of the latter came from the neoprene bodysuits tucked into pants and layered under Alaïa-esque pleated knit dresses and skirts. They were such an integral part of the show that it was a disappointment to learn that they're relegated to special orders. Perhaps that will change once retailers have their say, but as it stands, it's the sole miss in an otherwise hit-filled collection.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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