Paul & Joe
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 6, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Nearly every model on the runway at Paul & Joe was smiling—from "smizes" to the full monty with teeth. Was it the all-flats footwear? Or the fact that this was the second-to-last show of a grueling month? The explanation came from designer Sophie Albou. "I like smiley girls!" she exclaimed backstage. "I tell them all to smile."Those happy expressions were a perfect fit for these giddy-cute clothes. This looked unabashedly like a Spring/Summer collection, a thing of note at a moment in fashion when seasonlessness is the standard. Albou opened up shop recently in Los Angeles—her sole stand-alone U.S. outpost—and while her brand of bohemia is parisienne, these flippy printed minidresses, shrunken bombers, embroidered peasant blouses, and fluttery maxi skirts should do a brisk business on the West Coast.
On the verge of her 15th anniversary, Albou explained that she wanted to include everything she loves: color, freshness, and prints. The last gave her a point of difference in a crowded contemporary market that wasn't anywhere near as cheek-by-jowl when she began. The kitten print here will give Albou cool-girl cachet, as will the nerdy prescription glasses, and that should stand her in good stead when she finally opens in New York—a plan that's in the offing.
Albou explained that the huge orb at the opening of the runway was meant to be the sun. Kudos to her for bringing light and warmth to the end of a rainy week.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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