Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
September 16, 2010 London
PPQ's appeal, on the evidence of Friday night's crowd, anyway, cuts across a bizarre board, from Brigitte Nielsen to Oliver from the xx. In a way, you can see why: Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker make clothes for the movies in their minds. Their latest was a cocktail of references. The program notes fancied something exotically Eastern (with a fez the headgear of choice), but a fitted black dress trimmed in multicolored ruffles was more South of the Border. So was a tiered silk pencil skirt in fiery red. PPQ's USP is usually a rock 'n' roll shtick, but this collection felt more grown-up and accomplished, bringing to mind a hard-boiled movie dame, a quintessential someone like Ida Lupino. You could imagine her pairing a scalloped neckline with pedal pushers, maybe even black rah-rah shorts with a cropped frilled jacket, or a sunset orange strapless playsuit with a little peplum for an Acapulco getaway. The fifties bad-girl vibe was counteracted by the sweetness of shorts in a summery blue and white stripe, paired here with a white cotton poet's blouse, as well as by a spaghetti-strapped sundress (after New York, that particular item is shaping up as a Spring 2011 essential). And the colorful print that mixed animals and mosaics in a geometric pattern was pure eighties (especially when paired with gold satin pants). The credits featured a nod to "tanning" (James Read for Fake Bake with skin prep by Adonia). That, as far as anyone can remember, is a fashion show first.