Rag & Bone
post a comment ›
NEW YORK, September 10, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
David Neville and Marcus Wainwright are coming off a super-successful season. Their Fall collection was as directional as it was wearable, a hit with editors and buyers alike, and this summer saw them open a new store on Houston Street stocked with their nicely priced not-so-basic basics. No surprise, then, that they were eager, as Wainwright said before the show, to push themselves again. But this time they didn't quite find that sweet spot as reliably as usual.The show started promisingly with a tailored pantsuit (a Rag & Bone specialty) in white broderie anglaise, the sweetness of which was undercut by a harness bra, part of a collaboration with Jean Yu. And other comparatively simple looks followed, including a black blazer worn with a pair of skirts—one chiffon, the other suede—and a boudoir-ish nude and black long slipdress cheekily accessorized with a sporty backpack.
Their use of futuristic, military-grade fabrics was compelling (one of the line's starting points, Wainwright said, was pics of his father and grandfather in their military uniforms). But a number of looks were over-styled (an openwork crochet tunic over a sheer tunic in a colorful print, over a contrasting skirt) or left the models overexposed. A see-through top doesn't make a cup-less bra safe for work or the club.
Even as Neville and Wainwright have stretched themselves each season, the appeal of this brand has been how strongly tethered to reality it remains, how much it reflects what the cool girls want to look like on their best day. Not enough of this collection met the bar they've set for themselves.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
