Roksanda Ilincic
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 20, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
The quick take at Roksanda Ilincic was neo-seventies. That mostly came from the hippie-trippy silk head wraps trailing fabric down the back and the glossy, glam, silver runway. But it was the exact opposite of an illegal-substance-filled Me Decade nightclub that inspired this increasingly established eveningwear talent. "It was all about capturing the essence of a late summer day," Ilincic said after the show. "I wanted to bottle it up, that lightness and freshness, like a perfume."You could see that most overtly in breezy dresses that were, in essence, beautifully executed caftans given an upgrade in silk gazar, satin, and organza. But even Ilincic's more complex and constructed dresses seemed to gracefully swirl around the body like wisps of smoke, shaped only by a length of ribbon. There was actually more of that seventies element in high-waisted trousers. Cut in jewel-toned or icy silver silk, they didn't qualify as daywear, but they did expand Ilincic's dress-centric worldview.
With frocks and otherwise, Ilincic aims to set herself apart by experimenting with fabrics. For instance, the tweedy-textured fluorescent pink material on the dress that opened the show was actually a loosely woven silk gazar. And that meshlike material that trimmed nearly everything, imparting a halo effect, was French lace. Not all the experiments were successful: The idea of Grecian gowns acting casual in a cotton-silk was solid, but the execution felt heavy. Alas, even a summer's day isn't completely perfect.
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