Rochas
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PARIS, September 29, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Remember last season's retro sixties moment at Rochas? Marco Zanini is on a far more idiosyncratic trip for Spring. "It's personal, a melting pot of all I love," he said before the show. The silk florals and matching corsages felt like a callback to his first runway collection for the label a year ago. The scarf prints were homegrown in a different way, based as they were on paintings the designer commissioned by the Swedish artist Slotts Barbro (with titles borrowed from Françoise Sagan novels, a typical Rochas twist).Zanini himself is half Swedish, and this Spring he and his collaborator sister (Christopher and Tammy Kane aren't fashion's only sibling act) paid a trip to Barbro's village. That apparently influenced the show's modest sensibility—cue the head kerchiefs, men's kneesocks, and, more tangentially, the loose, almost awkward fit of a black silk bustier bra (lingerie being a Rochas hallmark then and now) and a silk duchesse crinoline dress.
Indeed, there seemed to be a country mouse naiveté—the Twitter-verse immediately dubbed it "chic hausfrau"—to pieces like a boxy, rolled-sleeve cardigan jacket and its below-the-knee dirndl, or a peplum vest worn with matching pleated, cropped trousers over a puffed-sleeve blouse. But the designer also made sure to include the likes of a smartly cut blazer and wrap-skirted dress, which would be believable on the chicest of city mice.
As for the closing group of bias-cut, washed silk slipdresses, pajama sets, and dressing gowns (right on trend, by the way), it was about as romantic a moment as the Spring season has delivered so far. If other elements of the collection weren't so obviously seductive, they were all close to Zanini's heart, and it's hard not to be enchanted by that kind of go-your-own-way attitude.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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