Rodarte
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NEW YORK, September 14, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Kate and Laura Mulleavy found inspiration for Spring in their backyard. Make that their childhood backyard. The sisters, who now reside in Pasadena, grew up in Northern California, and it was the redwoods native to that part of the country from which this collection sprouted. On the phone the night before the show, Laura promised "every shade of brown you can imagine, seventies suburbia, wood paneling, gold, off colors like chartreuse—basically, a combination of all the things that represent the area to us."If that sounds like a recipe for a signature Rodarte mash-up, this wasn't a predictable collection. The Mulleavys have moved on from the artful dishevelment and studied quirkiness of their last few seasons to embrace a seductive new precision. Having shed their nomad layers for the most part, their models wore such uncomplicated yet accomplished looks as an hourglass dress with cutaway shoulders; a cropped jacket and matching wrap skirt in stamped leather; a wood-grain-print blouse sliced high on the torso to reveal a provocative flash of skin above pleated trousers; or, even more simply, a black lace blouse tucked into a tiered mint skirt.
The Mulleavy sisters are still dreamers, though—a gladiator dress whipstitched together from squares of burnished gold leather was easy proof of that. And their references are still all over the map; what did the gorgeous blue and white Ming vase evening dresses have to do with redwoods? And they haven't abandoned eccentricity entirely: The platform wedges were carved from wood, metal, and pyrite cubes into butterflies and flowers. But they seem to have done a fair bit of growing up over the course of a season. This beautiful and provocative collection will do nothing to quell rumors of LVMH's courtship of the Mulleavys.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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