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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 29, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Martine Sitbon said she saw the entire story of her Spring collection in the dress that opened the show. Indeed, it combined the three elements she set out to weave into the season. First, there was its bold rose-on-acid hue, then the soft lightness of its tulle and silk layers, which was then reined in by the graphic detailing of sunburst pleating and trapunto shoulders. "It's electric romantic," the designer said backstage before the show. And it was classic Sitbon: femininity with its froth curtailed for urban (and, for that matter, Parisian) tastes.The embroidered tulle worked nicely, particularly in dresses with an Art Deco echo. And Sitbon underscored the idea of an appropriately weighted airiness in coats and dresses with some of the most wearable feathers we've ever seen. They were dappled in tonal shades both light and dark, and clipped short. But a girl cannot live by net, puff, and plume alone. That seemed to be the thinking in the dark and sexy interlude (consisting of a lace-up tailored skirt and matching halter, and attendant dress) and a ribbon-woven, body-con moment that recalled Hervé Léger. A better option were the tuxedo jackets and coat-dresses with a spray of pleated tulle peeking out from under the collar. Is there a more appropriate companion than a tux to dresses that are meant to be as light and cosmopolitan as a Champagne bubble?
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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