Martine Sitbon said she saw the entire story of her Spring collection in the dress that opened the show. Indeed, it combined the three elements she set out to weave into the season. First, there was its bold rose-on-acid hue, then the soft lightness of its tulle and silk layers, which was then reined in by the graphic detailing of sunburst pleating and trapunto shoulders. "It's electric romantic," the designer said backstage before the show. And it was classic Sitbon: femininity with its froth curtailed for urban (and, for that matter, Parisian) tastes.

The embroidered tulle worked nicely, particularly in dresses with an Art Deco echo. And Sitbon underscored the idea of an appropriately weighted airiness in coats and dresses with some of the most wearable feathers we've ever seen. They were dappled in tonal shades both light and dark, and clipped short. But a girl cannot live by net, puff, and plume alone. That seemed to be the thinking in the dark and sexy interlude (consisting of a lace-up tailored skirt and matching halter, and attendant dress) and a ribbon-woven, body-con moment that recalled Hervé Léger. A better option were the tuxedo jackets and coat-dresses with a spray of pleated tulle peeking out from under the collar. Is there a more appropriate companion than a tux to dresses that are meant to be as light and cosmopolitan as a Champagne bubble?