Ruffian
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 9, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Leave obvious inspirations like Bianca Jagger or Ali MacGraw to other designers. Brian Wolk and Claude Morais took Susan Travers, an obscure diplomat, according to the press notes, and the only woman to serve officially with the French Foreign Legion, as a muse for Spring. She provided the collection with its polished military look—brass-buttoned ambassador jackets cinched with satin belts over high-waisted, full-legged canvas trousers and satin camp shirts tucked into crisp A-line skirts. The white, royal blue, olive drab, and gold palette was razor-sharp, but Ruffian's lineup wasn't as regimented as all that. Travers' position took her not only through Europe but to Africa and Vietnam as well, which gave the designers a good reason to mix in an ikat-patterned strapless dress with an intricately pleated bodice and another summery frock with pintucking at the waist in white cotton sateen. Leopard print and black sequin-embroidered camouflage added an exotic element, too, the former more believably than the latter. Wolk and Morais have always loved mixing the masculine with the feminine. But with so much tailoring on the runways lately, it was their straight-up-sexy dresses draped to a twist at the waist that had real gotta-get-one appeal.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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