September 29, 2010 Paris
This season, Abe focused on injecting luxury and volume into casual retail all-stars like trenches, nautical tops, and cabled knits. That meant blouse-y satin gussets set into the sides of caped and cropped trenches, and sleeveless flak jackets that zipped open to reveal the ends of a cashmere cardigan sewn inside. Flaring, pleated skirts came in one piece with a lacy slip. Elsewhere, Abe printed sailor stripes on a paisley cardigan with chiffon gussets that laced up the side in keeping with her "ahoy, matey" motif.
Abe develops all her own fabrics, and the highlight this season was a chiffon flocked with velvet and printed plaid. At times, it read as country gear, and at others as a nifty new tweed—but both read chic.
Though the clothes were presented on dress forms, each had a charming pair of Christian Louboutin pumps—either with pearl ankle straps or feather-trimmed—sitting at its base. Sadly, those won't be produced, but watch this space: Abe told us her next wearably cool and conceptual frontier is footwear.