Sass & Bide
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 17, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton named their show for Papa Sucre, their fantasy backer. He sounds a lot more voodoo than his English translation, "Sugar Daddy," which may explain the hint of the Caribbean in the raffia appurtenances that decked Sass & Bide's latest collection. But, more to the point, "Sarah-Jane's been meditating," said Middleton. "We've all gone Zen." Which, for this collection, meant a new degree of restraint and focus. If their clothes were once so embellished they could feel built, rather than sewn, Clarke and Middleton here opted for softer, more flattering draping and knotting in a simple, natural color palette. Simplest—and best—of all was a little shirtdress in a black and white broken check. The organic mood carried over into a striated print of what looked like bamboo—and that raffia, of course, in collars, jackets, and skirts. The girls still love their warrior-queen hardware, however: A top with a crisscross drape was anchored by a big copper corset belt, and an otherwise demure shorts suit was weighed down by a capelet of copper beads. Middleton's own outfit offered a viable alternative. She matched her little leather shorts with a black jacket whose shoulders were studded with seeds, rather than beads.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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