Tory Burch founded her business on instinct. But even as she ticks off bigger and better milestones—the next being flagship stores in Rome and London—she's stuck to her what-my-friends-and-I-want-to-wear strategy. For Spring, Burch said she was in the mood for elegant sportswear with clean lines and silhouettes. At the clean-lined extreme, that meant a crisp white tunic tucked into a slim A-line navy skirt, pulled together with a sleek bright gold belt. But Burch is no minimalist. Her version of pared back encompasses bright striped jersey, bohemian ruffles, an abstracted print of flying birds, and a fab navy and white batik.

Still, the look was far more grown-up than Fall's magpie collection. Belted maxi shirtdresses projected C.Z. Guest by the pool. And the bang-on-trend seventies thread, here, was more fresh-scrubbed than decadent. (Although the boyishly cut striped suits that the designer said she'd like to be wearing now were something you might imagine Mick Jagger strutting in back in the day, they were actually inspired by her dapper father.) A big part of the company's growth is accessories. Jute-soled platform wedges, streamlined mannish bags, and Justin Giunta's bold gold and Lucite jewelry were all worthy successors to the famous ballet flats. Add it up, and it was yet another step forward for Burch's expanding empire.