September 13, 2010
Tenth anniversary gifts are traditionally metal of some kind, so there was a sound basis for Alice Temperley armoring up to mark her label's first decade in business. At the same time, she was drawn to Guinevere and Arthur, one of the most durable romantic myths we've got—and Temperley is nothing if not a romantic at heart. As a reminder of that, there was a sweet white sundress, the kind that first drew the world's attention to her. Otherwise, though, she opted for the harder edge of pewter, bronze, and dull gold, literally reflected in the broken mirrors that formed the floor of her presentation. Temperley's Guinevere was no floaty wing piece for Lancelot. Instead, she wore a hood of gold mesh, like chain mail, or a mesh tank topped by a cardigan studded with metal beads, or a sweater dress with an angry big cat coiling around it. And even a sweeter piece like the gold plissé shift dress brought to mind Diana the Huntress. Many of the 30 looks were accessorized with harnesses. According to the designer, they were for medieval effect, but they also injected a modern fetishistic note that seemed in tune with Temperley's new toughness.