It's official, white is the new camel. Like Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra yesterday, Thakoon Panichgul opened his show with a series of looks in that pale shade: a trim twill jacket with a detachable breakaway hem atop paper-bag shorts, a double-breasted pantsuit, a shift with chiffon sleeves. All the virginal Swiss eyelet might have given the collection a demure feeling, had Panichgul not sexed it up with oversize hook-and-eyes and strappings. These faintly suggested bondage, and not so faintly revealed a good deal of skin.

This designer came into his own during fashion's recent dress craze, but he was smart enough to sharpen his lineup for Spring. Mixed in among the boudoir-ish gauzy gowns and sheer wallpaper organza tank dresses were tailored pieces, some in mattress-ticking stripes or denim. A chambray blue vest and matching boot-cut jeans had audience favorite written all over it. The other contender was a T-shirt dress in matte python sequins, its loose drape reminiscent of past hits. All in all? A positive development for Panichgul, who pushed himself beyond his comfort zone while remaining in step with what we've seen elsewhere this season