Trussardi
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 25, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Ask Milan Vukmirovic why the seventies are back, and he'll be quick to tell you: "It's because people are going out again—a lot." It was fitting, then, that after a foray into the decade's more ladylike elements last season, the Trussardi 1911 creative director took a walk on the louche side with his on-message Spring collection. Think David Bailey's famous pictures of Marie Helvin in Tahiti, with a bit of a military vibe thrown in; "urban jungle" is what the designer called it.Yes, that meant there was a lot of leopard, and yes, that's a print that's been everywhere lately, but Vukmirovic made it new by doing it in white and black, sometimes pairing it with a palm-frond print. Still, the latter of the two motifs looked fresher, especially on pieces like a nightclub-ready one-shoulder cocktail number (worn with a matching flower at the neck), an easy jumpsuit, and a floor-length tank dress with a fitted suede macramé bodice. That last one was just begging for a beach party on a hot summer night.
Three seasons in, the bags and shoes are the best performers at this classic Italian brand's new 1911 line. Here, Vukmirovic lavished plenty of attention and no little amount of the house's expertise on clutches stitched in swirling patterns from thin leather strips and on wedge heels with lacing up the back. Leather also features on the arms of the company's just-launched sunglasses.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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