What do you do for Spring at a brand famous for its cashmeres? That's the question Jason Wu asked himself before unveiling his second capsule collection for TSE at Industria Superstudio. He wasn't short on answers. His most eye-catching proposal was an ivory sweater loosely woven from what looked like an oversize yarn. Turns out, it was a long strip of chiffon Wu twisted and sewed together and knit using massive needles fashioned from tubes he picked up at a hardware store. It's practically weightless. Another experiment: silk-screening khaki cotton with a digital paint print; the resulting sheath and coat looked almost like leather. Wu fans will be pleased to see fresh takes on the tailoring he's been working on in his signature collection, only rendered in TSE's specialty yarns. An elongated blazer in extra-fine merino wool is reason enough to visit a TSE boutique.

Like their guest star, TSE designers Dushane Noble and Jessica Groom had a lot of fun with fabric, judging by the looks they showed at today's presentation. Inspired by a book about the sculptures Picasso made from found objects, the duo knit a strapless dress with, from bottom to top, linen, silk, and a technical yarn, and fused that same linen to leather for a cool-looking jacket-cum-cardigan. And they, too, showed some great tailoring, including a spot-on yellow silk blouse and what could be the season's widest flares in a week full of them. All of which is to say, this season at least, TSE is about a whole lot more than cashmere.