Undercover
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
To anyone who attended one of Jun Takahashi's provocative early Paris shows, it's slightly disorienting to find the designer showing everyday clothes at a showroom appointment. (It's a bit like seeing Oz exposed as just a guy behind the curtain.) But this is actually the second season that Takahashi has taken the quotidian wearability route.For Fall, he posed his wife in front of various projected scenarios, pushing a grocery cart or having a glass of wine at home. Here, the backdrop was a comic strip called Underman. The animation, we were told, was an unrelated creative exercise; the damsel in distress and the evil anti-heroine simply happened to be wearing the designer's Spring clothes.
Those clothes, Takahashi explained, were meant to inject a vein of luxury and sophistication into casual street kit. This means a canvas car coat gets satin pockets, and T-shirts are made oversize by tailoring an extra panel of fabric under the arm. There was more life in miniskirts with silk fringe fronts and faded denim backs, shirts and pants with painted-on leopard and sequin prints, and an anorak with a wired hood. And last season's nylon shopping bag now comes in a papery glitter material. Takahashi hasn't jettisoned a sense of humor or wit.
At any rate, these two recent collections shouldn't be taken as evidence of a whole new gentler, more commercial business strategy chez Takahashi. The designer told us he's planning something "very different" for next Fall.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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