Topshop Unique
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2010
By Tim Blanks
"Ethereal," was Topshop head of design Karen Bonser's definition of the mood for today's Unique collection. She'd been looking at pictures she'd taken of flowers in her garden, mesmerized by the light shining through them. And her studio was equally captivated by fairies and creatures from myth, like Pegasus and the unicorn. But Topshop is a pop shop, so there was nothing as literal as Tinkerbell. Instead, there were floaty chiffon scarf tops, fluttering capelets and filmy palazzos, clothes for contemporary fairy princesses in an array of fantastical prints. (With their sky-high Perspex platforms, these maidens even brought their own towers with them.)If the glitter and flare of the clothes brought glam rock to mind, it was the frilled prettiness of Marc Bolan, rather than the androgynous edge of David Bowie. The huge, frizzy hair, streaked with color, helped. But the look was equally evocative of the disco princesses of those ever-lovin' more-is-more seventies. A rhinestone-studded top paired with beaded pants just about nailed it. Even a smartly tailored suit—which momentarily suggested a professional pause in the ongoing parade—gave it up for trails of chiffon in the back.
A burst of Stevie Nicks' "Edge of Seventeen" on the soundtrack cued a surprising side trip to Southern California, all shades of red desert and orange sunset. A red suede dress, high at the front, dipping low at the back, was perforated into lace by a Pegasus motif. Distressed denim trailed cotton fringing, bags were tasseled. They could have seemed schizo in light of what had come before, but instead they played right along with the intense mood of fantasy and escapism. In amid this farrago of fabulosity, the white and cream pieces were the least successful. Tellingly, they were also the plainest. Maybe that's Topshop's Unique lesson: The more stuff you throw at the wall, the more stuff sticks.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen













