Vanessa Bruno's collection had all the Spring trends: neons, lace, cutouts, slipdresses, top-to-toe print—she even did minimal. Put together and accessorized with fabric flower earrings, leis, and mismatched anklets, it all produced a sort of beachy summer vibe. Maybe her just-opened store in Los Angeles and the July trip she took there to fête it with starlets like Kate Bosworth and Rachel Bilson proved inspiring.

Out of everything Bruno put on the runway, you could picture her new Hollywood pals appreciating the easy drape of a tropical-print silk dress, with its substantial helping of upper thigh. Either that, or a bold floral all-in-one straight out of the Beverly Hills Hotel circa the fifties. What they'd take a pass on: fluoro plaid knit bikinis and a white mesh maillot.

In its little-bit-of-this, little-bit-of-that attitude, Spring lacked the strong focus of Bruno's Fall collection, with its terrific outerwear. But she gets a pass this once for being an independent designer with a growing international business.