Versus
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MILAN, September 26, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
The Versace Teatro runway was set with rusting playground equipment, daisies sprouting from the places where the swings and sliding board were planted in real grass. It was an unusual scenario to encounter chez Donatella, and then the recess bell rang and it got even stranger. Out walked the first model, playing against Versus type in a red, blue, yellow, and black plaid button-down tucked into matching jeans, accessorized with pointy-toed flats and a schoolkid's leather backpack. She could've been the teacher's pet. Quickly, though, it became apparent that there was nothing goody-goody about the Versus girl this season. The second outfit was that same plaid, but in the style of the fab cutout minidresses that made a big impact at last February's show; the fifth was plaid again, but ruched into a below-the-knee, sexy, body-hugging dress.What followed played out with such impressive precision, you'd swear that Donatella Versace and her design sidekick, Christopher Kane, had been working in tandem a lot longer than three seasons. Look by look, florals entered the plaid picture, until the stretchy dresses were a patchwork of tiny flower prints. Then the process repeated, first with graphic stripes (picture a bandage-tight polo and hobble skirt with a cardigan tossed over the shoulders) and finally, color-blocking. We counted at least six different shades on one flippy little number.
At the end, they had the girls in the plaid back by the slide, and the color-blocked party dresses up by the spinning chair. "It's Village of the Damned," Kane laughed backstage. "Or clones." More like the cool girls that you always wanted to be. He said he and Versace found most of the prints in the Versus archives; they just upped the colors and added stretch mesh, as well as elongated the silhouettes, "to make it more today." He got that right. Kane and Versace nailed the trends and the brand-heritage thing—and, most importantly, came up with some dresses that girls are going to fight each other to wear first.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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