Rodolfo Paglialunga isn't an L.B.D. kind of guy. Little by little, he's been turning Vionnet into a reliable source for special dresses, the kind that make fans among the young Hollywood crowd. For Spring, that something special comes in the form of all sorts of hardware, including resin chain belts through which the top and bottom of his halter dresses have been woven together.

The cuffs and collar of a short silk shirtdress were studded in gold mesh; other dresses came suspended from gold necklaces or, more peculiarly but no less charmingly, colorful climbing rope. The real feat was how light everything felt. It helped that Paglialunga, inspired by Art Deco, stuck to a graphic, mostly black and white palette; he also kept the silhouette, reminiscent of flapper dresses, simple and unstructured.

The other appealing aspect of this presentation: The designer moved his focus beyond the red carpet to real-life occasions. One note, though: With those integral belts and necklace necklines, these dresses will be next to impossible to have dry-cleaned. Careful with the red wine.