For the past few seasons, Vivienne Tam
has focused on intricately detailed cocktail dresses; the mood has been dark and the silhouettes seriously tailored. Spring was a different world. Tam's imaginary muse took a trip down the Silk Road, from China across India to Persia. She was a crafty kind of vagabond, a girl who'd turn her fisherman's pants into an embroidered pair of shorts and pair them with a deconstructed cheongsam. The best looks came out first: A series of beautifully patched-together cotton lace dresses—with crochet work inspired by Asian temple facades and Middle Eastern frescoes—had a lived-in quality that was extremely appealing, like something you'd find inside a flea-market steamer trunk in a dream. The global mix felt right. Yes, some of the pieces did shout out their places of origin a bit too loudly, but overall the show had that relaxed mood everyone seems to crave these days.