There aren't many newcomers who can rouse the world's top buyers to a 9 a.m. presentation midway through New York fashion week, but Wes Gordon did it today. The Central Saint Martins grad spent summers in the studios of Tom Ford and Oscar de la Renta, and it shows in his clothes. He's got a taste for fine fabrics and hand-finished details. Saks and Harrods scooped up his Fall debut, which focused on Thierry Mugler-esque hard-edged suiting, and Bergdorf Goodman is eyeing the label for 2011. This season, Gordon added a bit more flou, in the form of a draped gold lamé gown with black grosgrain trim and a starburst-pleated georgette halter dress. "Spring should be light and airy," he said. "I wanted an easier, more youthful feel."

You can't fault a young designer for wanting to push himself, but it was the tailoring that again made the big impact. An army green stretch-cotton jacket with gold dégradé embroidered sleeves was a real looker, as was a utility-chic double-breasted vest in the same fabric that opened the show. With their smart cut and perfect fit, those pieces looked like the work of a seasoned pro.