Y-3
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 12, 2010
By Tim Blanks
It's unlikely the season will see a more optimistic interpretation of a catwalk offering than Y-3's evocation of Janis Joplin, Elvis Presley, and Jimi Hendrix as the holy trinity of rock style propping up the label's latest collection. At a pinch, the shrunken Napoleonic jacket sported by one male model could be spun as a Hendrix reference (though the waders with which it was paired radically diffused the effect), but otherwise, the somber parade of cropped and chopped clothing brought Edward Scissorhands to mind, with the sky-high hair of the male models as a further spur to that association.Scissors had certainly been at Yohji Yamamoto's signature Edwardian tailoring, slicing away at coats and jackets on the girls, cropping tops on the boys. If a music reference had to be brought into play, it was surely goth, underscored by the witchy hair and toxic lipstick of the female models. They were all wearing black bras, like Sicilian widows, to go with their cutaway tops and flouncy or flowing bottoms. The men, on the other hand, were cursed with electric-shaded velvet corduroy items. There were some appealing pieces—like the man's shirt in cotton ticking with jacket detailing, or the woman's fitted red cardigan that floated away in tails—but Yohji's daughter Limi Feu does hard-rock attitude a lot better than this. Kudos, however, to the person whose decision it was to use Brit rockers the Duke Spirit as a live soundtrack, even if their authentically hard edge cast an unflattering light on the frequently ersatz nature of the clothes.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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