September 11, 2010 New York
Scissors had certainly been at Yohji Yamamoto's signature Edwardian tailoring, slicing away at coats and jackets on the girls, cropping tops on the boys. If a music reference had to be brought into play, it was surely goth, underscored by the witchy hair and toxic lipstick of the female models. They were all wearing black bras, like Sicilian widows, to go with their cutaway tops and flouncy or flowing bottoms. The men, on the other hand, were cursed with electric-shaded velvet corduroy items. There were some appealing pieces—like the man's shirt in cotton ticking with jacket detailing, or the woman's fitted red cardigan that floated away in tails—but Yohji's daughter Limi Feu does hard-rock attitude a lot better than this. Kudos, however, to the person whose decision it was to use Brit rockers the Duke Spirit as a live soundtrack, even if their authentically hard edge cast an unflattering light on the frequently ersatz nature of the clothes.