January 22, 2012 Paris
Angelina Jolie wowed at the Golden Globes last week in a white Atelier Versace gown with a corseted waist that was made to look even tinier by the frock's arabesque of a red neckline. The dresses today followed the same general principle: second-skin tight and cut to accentuate the hourglass curves of a woman's body, only encrusted top to bottom in beads and plastic paillettes in place of Angie's shimmering satin. Here, in fact, the shapes were even more exaggerated thanks to curving gold metal insets that built up the shoulders or added inches to the hips.
The expertly realized results evoked Thierry Mugler's eighties glory days on the one hand and the movie Metropolis on the other. Backstage, Versace said, "I call them my warrior women." Fierce is putting things mildly. You can picture Diaz, with her muscled frame and newly cropped platinum bob, knocking them dead in a sparkly caution orange number, its strapless bodice outlined with a swoop of gold metal and the sequined hem giving way to delicate lace.
Amid the strict, cantilevering gowns, a one-shouldered cocktail dress had a sporty appeal. Versace also included a handful of super-short dresses topped by matching zip-front jackets, and a strapless maillot that looked retro save for its modernizing metal accents. Non-glamazons need not apply.