Ami
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 22, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Amid the more directional Paris collections, Ami stands out for its shrugging, unstudied approach to cool. Its young founder and designer, Alexandre Mattiussi, spent time at Dior Homme's 30 Avenue Montaigne line, at Marc Jacobs, and at Givenchy, but the sensibility of his own collection, now in its second season, hews closer to the model of A.P.C. In price, in style, and in toto, Ami is approachable. Friendly, you might say.Mattiussi stages his presentations as seemingly impromptu get-togethers. "We are in summer, we are in Paris, just guys having drinks," the designer said at his alfresco presentation outside a Marais cafe tonight. His ambition is to create a full wardrobe, soup to nuts; his first collection included everything from jeans and tees to shirts to a tux, and this one added swimwear and underwear to the mix, too.
"Panache, but not too much effort" is the desired look. It came through especially clearly in cotton and linen Prince of Wales checked blazers (single- or double-breasted); slim, over-dyed denim; and sherbet-colored suede mocs, in powder pink, blue, and rust. What emerged more intriguingly here than last season was his skill as a colorist. Still, Mattiussi said, "It's not about having a fashion point of view for the moment." The ambition is modest, but the upshot is that there's barely a piece out of place.
And for balance, here's an immodest ambition: worldwide reach. It's quite possible that this presentation marks Ami's last moments as a relative unknown. His first collection ships next month to Barneys, Mr Porter, Le Bon Marché, 10 Corso Como, and The Webster.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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