June 21, 2011 Paris
Mattiussi stages his presentations as seemingly impromptu get-togethers. "We are in summer, we are in Paris, just guys having drinks," the designer said at his alfresco presentation outside a Marais cafe tonight. His ambition is to create a full wardrobe, soup to nuts; his first collection included everything from jeans and tees to shirts to a tux, and this one added swimwear and underwear to the mix, too.
"Panache, but not too much effort" is the desired look. It came through especially clearly in cotton and linen Prince of Wales checked blazers (single- or double-breasted); slim, over-dyed denim; and sherbet-colored suede mocs, in powder pink, blue, and rust. What emerged more intriguingly here than last season was his skill as a colorist. Still, Mattiussi said, "It's not about having a fashion point of view for the moment." The ambition is modest, but the upshot is that there's barely a piece out of place.
And for balance, here's an immodest ambition: worldwide reach. It's quite possible that this presentation marks Ami's last moments as a relative unknown. His first collection ships next month to Barneys, Mr Porter, Le Bon Marché, 10 Corso Como, and The Webster.