Bally
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 20, 2011
By Dirk Standen
The starting point for the Bally Spring 2012 men's collection, according to Michael Herz, who designs the line with Graeme Fidler, was a real-life ballet company who visited Paris in 1951 and stayed at the Scribe. (The hotel has already given its name to one of the house's best-selling shoe styles, seen here in an attractive new lightweight lace-up version called the Scribe Légère.) That may be more backstory than is strictly required to understand what Herz readily admits is a range of "believable menswear." The fifties inspiration lent a bit of Talented Mr. Ripley panache to basics like leather bombers, flat-front khakis, and shawl-neck knits. Bringing things up to date were lightweight treatments such as perforated skins and details like the contrasting collar and cuffs on a leather Harrington. Similarly, patterned appliqués and sophisticated tones like dove gray lent new interest to classic holdalls. Herz believes he and Fidler, now in their second season at Bally, are laying a solid foundation for the company going forward. They're clearly enjoying the support provided by the Swiss-based label, for whom they recently shot a womenswear campaign with a certain big-name photographer. "I can't believe I was in a room with Steven Meisel," Herz said.COMMENTS
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna


















