Bespoken
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2011
By Maya Singer
If the world is going to hell in a handbasket, which is entirely plausible given the state of the euro and the unemployment numbers here at home, well, at least we can look back at late-seventies/early-eighties Manchester, England, and see a silver lining around the present gloom. At the time, Manchester was proper grim—and it was that grimness that helped foment the creation of the transcendently despondent band Joy Division, and the rise of the Madchester scene that came in its wake.That was the moment the Fayed and Goncalves brothers behind Bespoken referenced for their latest collection. Their riff on Madchester looked pretty dead-on—lank gray suits, fine-spun cardigans, skinny button-downs, a Harrington-style jacket made from waterproof Italian wool. Taking their cue from Factory Records graphics man Peter Saville, the brothers Bespoken developed subtly deconstructed plaid prints for shirting, and played with muted color-blocking. The latter showed up in an appealing dark gray suit that featured a block of navy on its jacket; that was one of the more fashion-forward items here. This wasn't an edgy or outré collection, but it was a fine showcase of what Bespoken does best, which is well-tailored suits in smart, beautiful fabrics that ring up at a reasonable price. The soft tailoring here was especially fine, and fit the inspiration well—there was a slightly rumpled, shrugged-on quality to items like a double-breasted shorts suit. So cheer up! Even if the future looks terrible, at least you don't have to.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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