Comme des Garçons
June 23, 2011 Paris
The theme was more explicit in the items that matched sartorial cut to punk thrust, like the diagonal biker zip that bisected a pinstriped blazer and a checked jacket, or the slashes that opened up another jacket. But that intimation of violence was the closest the collection came to punk's iconoclastic rush. Fact is, such a thing is felt, not thought, and it's scarcely the kind of emotion designed for analysis.
Kawakubo's creative cross-fertilization with punk's dowager, Vivienne Westwood, has yielded some career highs. Here, she may even have been stirring up the past when she accessorized her models with gaudy crowns by Christian Astuguevieille, just like Viv did so memorably decades ago. But Rei's punk princelings could have done with the frisson of a Johnny or a Sid.