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Costume National

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MILAN, June 18, 2011
By Tim Blanks
For Ennio Capasa, rockabilly is not only the roots of rock 'n' roll, it also stands for the energy of change, which ought to make it a usefully stimulating reference point for a fashion designer. In today's Costume National show, it was the oldies—or at least, the pieces that most closely referenced the rockabilly gear of an aeon ago—that were the goodies. Like a little micro-checked short-sleeved shirt with black lapels where a collar should be. Or that same style done in black with matching trousers, which was almost an ingeniously casual revamp of a tuxedo. Even the sole color accent—an eye-popping vermilion—registered like the red the teds wore to fire up their monotone, especially when it was trimmed in black.

Red aside, Capasa opted for a color palette that was dun and dusted in shapes that emphasized the deconstructed. The result erred on the drab, downbeat side, which was a pity, because there was actually a lot going on behind the scenes (or rather, inside the seams). Capasa is an arch fashion technologist. An early adopter of the needle-punching technique, he's already moved on to ultrasound, which is used in sails to create seamless, unsplittable seams. It made for a lighter garment, useful when you're toying with multifunction as Capasa did in this collection when he reversed a nylon bomber into a cotton blazer.

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