E. Tautz
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 21, 2011
By Jo-Ann Furniss
In a sportswear-dominated Man Day in London, it was perhaps left to E. Tautz to show where the peculiarly British fetish for a certain kind of sportswear came from and where it was going, too. As many of the young menswear designers showed a spin on the sportswear that has become ubiquitous on Britain's streets from the early eighties onward, E. Tautz showed how the clientele of the street could eventually graduate to "The Street"—that bastion of British menswear, Savile Row.Tautz's Patrick Grant approaches the history and legacy of his Savile Row house with an almost evangelical zeal. It is his desire to keep the craftsmanship, quality, and special ways of working of his British suppliers alive and relevant for his customers today. Perhaps this collection went further than any previous to do that, and it was a quietly standout moment for E. Tautz.
Yet it wasn't stuffy or staid. "We're taking the formality out of tailoring," Grant said. "There can be a certain stigma attached to it, but we wanted to do something beyond putting a tailored jacket with a pair of jeans." He turned suiting sporty, inspired by photographs of early-twentieth-century athletes, such as Harold Abrahams and the tale of the the Cuban marathon-running postman Felix Carvajal, who competed in the St. Louis Olympics of 1904 in nonathletic gear—including hobnail boots and a hat. There was an extreme insouciance to the wearing of the clothes this season that was slightly loopy yet extremely chic.
In Grant's hands, a pair of light gray tennis shorts might be teamed with a heavy linen double-breasted jacket. Gray flannel trousers were gathered and elasticated at the ankle like sweatpants. There were shocks of bright color in a flare orange military nylon parka or a cobalt blue ventile trench. And while the knits were heavy and perfect (and made by "eight ladies in South Wales"), some of the best jumpers were the ultra-luxurious cashmere sweatshirts that were an off-kilter spin on varsity letterman sweaters.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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