Ermenegildo Zegna
post a comment ›
MILAN, June 18, 2011
By Dirk Standen
In recent seasons, this label's collections have referenced China and India, a nod to those markets' current importance. For Spring 2012, Zegna's designers set out to evoke a different setting, one that overworked executives from Milan to Mumbai can presumably all relate to: a beachside paradise. "Shining silk passion," as the show notes dubbed proceedings, may sound like a late-night cable TV offering, but the Zegna team had a more decorous sort of courtship in mind. The show began with a troupe of acrobatic dancers performing a shadowy passion play behind the white screens that lined the runway, complete with roses and Champagne flutes. The way elected officials around the world have been acting lately, who couldn't use a return to a little old-fashioned romance?The clothes themselves did nothing to disturb this idyll. A sea of washed-out shades hit the catwalk: palest blue and green, dusty mauve, sand. With their swept-back, modified pompadours, the models recalled Alain Delon's Riviera rake in Purple Noon. But there's little that is retro about Zegna's approach. The company's technical expertise ensures that. Here, as the show's title suggests, silk blends gave a suppleness to a range of fabrics from cotton to linen. Crinkled finishes added textural interest. A sense of ease was apparent throughout. Though single- and double-breasted jackets and flat-front trousers were cut relatively close to the body, crewneck knits and silk scarves were the preferred alternative to shirt and tie, one pair of athletically inclined pants came with elasticized cuffs, and lightweight raincoats were often thrown casually over the lot. Anchoring the look were surprisingly sturdy shoes, suede or nubuck lace-ups with hefty clear rubber soles—a deliberate contrast to the clothes. In all, this was another purposeful step in the company's quest to get the Zegna man to loosen up a bit for the twenty-first century.
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Menswear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
B
Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
D
D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
E
E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
G
Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
I
Iceberg Issey Miyake -
J
J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
L
Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
N
N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
P
Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
R
Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
T
Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
U
Umit Benan -
V
Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
W
Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
Y
Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
ERROR:
