Henrik Vibskov
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 24, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Henrik Vibskov invited his audience to a lycée in the 3rd arrondissement for his show this season, and in its open courtyard, erected an apartment of sorts—one that attendants spun on wheels as beret-clad, goggled models circled through its rooms. To everything there is a season—turn, turn, turn? Maybe the designer was making a comment on the revolving door of life, or the fashion collection cycle, or maybe he was just indulging his usual taste for impenetrable theatrics. As far as the clothes were concerned, they struck the usual Vibskovian balance of outré and cool. Drop-crotch trousers, pleated shorts, and mélange tights were all on display. Statements knits—in sweater, suit, and Perfecto form—were the strongest of the lot. Odds are, they're what the faithful will be snapping off the racks at Vibskov's new NYC shop. And speaking of racks, some pieces came with racks practically included. A series of big-shouldered blazers had wooden dowels jutting through the back and out the sides. Showpieces, surely. They put you in mind of another great showpiece of our time: Carol Burnett's famous Gone With the Wind dress, curtain rod included.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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