Spring 2012 Menswear
June 23, 2011 Paris
Henrik Vibskov invited his audience to a lycée in the 3rd arrondissement for his show this season, and in its open courtyard, erected an apartment of sorts—one that attendants spun on wheels as beret-clad, goggled models circled through its rooms. To everything there is a season—turn, turn, turn? Maybe the designer was making a comment on the revolving door of life, or the fashion collection cycle, or maybe he was just indulging his usual taste for impenetrable theatrics. As far as the clothes were concerned, they struck the usual Vibskovian balance of outré and cool. Drop-crotch trousers, pleated shorts, and mélange tights were all on display. Statements knits—in sweater, suit, and Perfecto form—were the strongest of the lot. Odds are, they're what the faithful will be snapping off the racks at Vibskov's new NYC shop. And speaking of racks, some pieces came with racks practically included. A series of big-shouldered blazers had wooden dowels jutting through the back and out the sides. Showpieces, surely. They put you in mind of another great showpiece of our time: Carol Burnett's famous Gone With the Wind dress, curtain rod included.